We’ve teamed up with Oris on a limited-edition 38mm dive watch that unites the company’s vintage design legacy with the disruptive new Caliber 400.

An organic collaboration.

Oris represents the best of the Swiss watch industry in so many ways. The company is independent and down-to-earth; the watches are always interesting and accessible. That’s why we’ve partnered with Oris for a second time, and this go-round we put our heads together to reimagine what an ideal sport watch from the 1960s might look like. And we’re thrilled to share the result.

Meet the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Caliber 400 Limited Edition for HODINKEE. We started with the company’s Divers Sixty-Five silhouette that we all know so well, and then mixed things up a bit, creating a seriously functional – and seriously good-looking – dive watch in the process. It’s limited to 400 pieces and is exclusively available – right now – in the HODINKEE Shop.

What’s new.

For the first time at Oris, the Divers Sixty-Five has been equipped with a countdown bezel. We dropped the date window on the forest green dial – a hue as influenced by the pastoral landscape of Oris’s hometown of Hölstein, Switzerland, as it is by the verdant terrain of upstate New York – adding in hour markers on the cardinal points of the dial in the shape of the shields that once appeared on the company’s logo. The Oris signature on the dial is blocky and bold-faced – a departure from the company’s contemporary branding, and one that more closely resembles the stamp placed on 1960s Oris dive watches.

Most importantly, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Caliber 400 Limited Edition for HODINKEE is – as its name suggests – outfitted with the brand’s latest and greatest mechanical innovation: The Caliber 400. Revealed at the end of 2020, the Caliber 400 is Oris’s most significant step in multiple generations that emphasizes its expertise in watchmaking.

Oris actually has an extensive history of in-house production. The company developed 229 movements between 1904, the year it was founded, and 1981, when it began outsourcing ébauches from outside suppliers. The 1960s were a particularly fertile period for Oris as a manufacturer. The company was one of the ten largest watch companies in the world by the end of the decade, producing over one million watches, annually.

Two other noteworthy events occurred this same decade – first, there was the introduction of the Oris Star dive watch, our direct inspiration for today’s release and the closest comparison for the modern Divers Sixty-Five lineup as a whole. Then, there was the introduction of the in-house Oris Caliber 652, a chronometer-certified, self-winding movement outfitted with a lever escapement that represented Oris’s most significant technical advance in 30 years.

The self-winding Caliber 400, then, is a return to form for Oris in many ways. It features an entirely new architecture that was independently developed by Oris over five years. Recalling the success of the Caliber 652 for the company in the 1960s, the Caliber 400 is another landmark achievement for Oris, emphasized by its user-friendliness and worry-free wearability.

How it works.

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five Caliber 400 Limited Edition for HODINKEE is the first time the new movement has been placed inside a stainless-steel Divers Sixty-Five. It’s easy enough to explain why the Caliber 400 is such an accomplishment. We could repeat its signature attributes – a five-day power reserve, a high resistance to magnetism (tested to 2,250 gauss), and a 10-year service interval backed by a decade-long warranty – or we could point you in the direction of its impressive suite of specs, headlined by accuracy in the range of +5 and -3 seconds a day (a figure that surpasses COSC chronometer certification). The Caliber 400 is also adjusted in five positions, utilizing a proprietary system developed by Oris involving a screw-driven rack and pinion system that controls a micrometric regulator.

But the most exciting details of the Caliber 400 require a deeper look inside. There’s the high-efficiency escapement, which builds on the historic legacy of the Swiss lever through the use of silicon for the escape wheel and anchor. Then, we have twin mainspring barrels arranged in series that ensure up to 120 hours of running autonomy when the movement is fully wound. Further, Oris revamped and optimized the gear train by reducing the torque in the mainspring, thereby reducing pressure on the individual working wheels, and redesigning key elements, including the teeth of the wheels, to optimize energy efficiency, contributing to the extended running autonomy and helping maintain rate stability throughout its entire power reserve.

Oris ditched modern convention through the introduction of a smooth, simple sliding-friction clip bearing system that rotates around a fixed pivot – meaning no ball bearings – with a unidirectional winding oscillator. Oris utilized this approach after identifying key points of failure in a traditional ball-bearing, bidirectional winding system, all in order to maintain reliability and the company’s promise of a 10-year service interval.

How it looks.

This is just the second Divers Sixty-Five to be offered in a 38mm diameter at Oris, filling a gap in the collection. At just 12.61mm in height, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Caliber 400 Limited Edition for HODINKEE offers easy wearability, perfect for any and all occasions, from summer at the beach to an autumnal hike. The rivet-style stainless-steel bracelet, which tapers smoothly from 19mm to 15mm, is a perfect fit to match the watch’s neo-vintage vibes.

In developing the design of the watch, we took a multifaceted approach, imagining the Divers Sixty-Five as inspired by both vintage dive watches and field watches, making it the all-in-one tool watch we’ve always wanted. We opted for a muted dark green shade on the dial, in a tone that feels inherently old school but also fresh enough that it’s not iterative. We then complemented the dial with light chartreuse-hued hour markers, filled with blue-glowing SuperLumiNova, in the shape of dots and polygonal shields. It’s all surrounded by the black aluminum bezel insert.

Now about that countdown bezel. We think countdown bezels are just about the coolest and most useful bezel out there. But for some reason, we barely see them in new watches today. They were more common 50 years ago, sure, but now? They’ve been almost entirely abandoned. We say – no more.

Now, with the Divers Sixty-Five Caliber 400 Limited Edition for HODINKEE, we can use the bezel as a countdown timer to our heart’s content, rather than the conventional use of dive bezel as a way to track elapsed time.

We packed the Divers Sixty-Five Caliber 400 Limited Edition for HODINKEE with details, but one of our favorite parts is just how simple and straightforward the watch ended up. The lack of a date aperture ensures beautiful symmetry across the dial, while the elements of the whole that make up the rest of the watch are just as minimalist as we like our tool watches to be – a compelling contrast to the technical innovation at work inside the watch.

The fine print.

As watch lovers, the hunt for the perfect vintage-inspired dive watch is neverending. Watch design is, of course, a cyclical business, but the elements that made up our favorite tool watches from the 1960s have never changed. And for the first time, thanks to Oris, we’ve put them all together in a single watch.

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five Caliber 400 Limited Edition for HODINKEE is a run of just 400 individually numbered watches, exclusively available in the HODINKEE Shop, for $3,800 each. All units are available today, while supplies last. As with every Oris sold in the HODINKEE Shop, the Divers Sixty-Five Caliber 400 Limited Edition comes with complimentary and expedited international shipping.

The Caliber 400 is a brand-new introduction, a first-of-its-kind development rather than a take of a previously existing movement structure. Thanks to Oris, there’s no reason to worry if there are any unforeseen snags that come along in your ownership experience, as each watch with the Caliber 400 comes with a 10-year warranty, activated after your watch is registered in the company’s online “MyOris” system. Plus, that decade-long warranty is increased by another year, courtesy of the HODINKEE Shop, for a total of 11 years of worry-free coverage. How’s that for a guarantee?

Learn more about the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Caliber 400 Limited Edition for HODINKEE, and purchase yours, now in the HODINKEE Shop.